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They are known as Cantucci or Cantuccini. Sometimes Cantcci Toscani because they derive from Tuscany. And sometimes Biscotti di Prato because they come from the city of Prato, 15 miles outside Florence. The almond cookies twice are probably the most famous Italian treat. Now, the oldest and most renowned producer in Tuscany opens its factory to visitors for the first time.
Antonio Mattei cookie factory was founded in Prato in 1858. The shop still occupies the same premises on via Ricasoli (with the factory behind). In 1867, its founder Antonio Mattei (a “genius in his art”, according to Pellegrino Artui) presented his biscotti di Prato – the first never recorded – during the Universal Paris exhibition and won a special mention. Unlike other recipes that include butter or margarine, honey and spices, hers are made with only five ingredients: wheat flour, sugar, eggs, almonds and pine nuts. They are more crunchy than most with a sweet gourme flavor. The current range also includes chocolate, pistachios and Cantucci hazelnuts, as well as specialties such as Brutti Buoni (“ugly but good” cookies) and Fette di Pan Brioche tostate (grilled brioche slices).
One of the strengths of the tour is the smell of smells that strikes you as soon as you enter: sweet butter, hot chocolate, scented hazelnuts – depending on what is out of the oven. The “laboratory” itself is filled with mixers and other equipment where the trays bordered by cookie breads pass through a tunnel oven and emerge 20 minutes later. These are cut into slices while being hot and in handbag.
During the tour, you are delighted with stories about how, for example, the recipe for the orange butter mantovana cake was offered to the founder in 1875 by two nuns of Mantua who passed over Rome. Or how Ernesto Pandolfini, who took over after Mattei, had the idea of packing the cookies in hat boxes, always a business signature. Then, you are invited to a tasting, whose culmination nibbles nibbles biscotti which are warm and soft directly from the oven.
Mattei may be the oldest producer, but Tuscany is home to countless others. Among the best is Ancient oven Santi In Migliana near Prato, which has been canttucci since 1920. In parallel with its almond biscotti, the bakery produces chocolate, grapes, apricot and cantucci Fig. Other distinguished manufacturers include Scapigliati in Florence, Piedmont Dogliani in Carrara, Family desires In Montecatini Terme and Marabissi in Chianciano Terme, a favorite for his Cantucci on the hazelnut. To a newcomer, Fratelli Lunelli is a family business led by two brothers from Quartata since 1966; His almonds with almonds rich in butter are among the most crumpled. A good basic rule is to search for cantucci made using a few ingredients, which are pale yellow (eggs) rather than white.
As for how to appreciate them, the tradition said has soaked in Santo wine after dinner. Some dunk their own in red wine, hot chocolate, sparkling cappuccino or cold orange juice in summer. The chef based in New York, Jess Shadbolt, likes to crush his, swirl the crumb through the ice cream and finish with a generous santo wine flow. There is nothing about this that I don't like.
Visits are only reserved and can accommodate up to 12 people per location. They will present themselves on Saturday morning until the end of June (and restart from January)
